Travel Article
Swimming with whale sharks in Western Australia
By Kim Hart, Travelwise Australia travel specialist
There are some travel experiences you do for the photos...
…and others that stay with you forever. Swimming with whale sharks on Western Australia’s Ningaloo Reef falls firmly into the second category… although the photos are pretty great, too.
Kim Hart
An expert in the ultra luxurious, Kim is your go-to for superyachts, exclusive-use villas and the kind of experiences that don’t appear on websites. She has an extensive understanding of the world’s finest hotels and a personal in-depth knowledge of Africa, Australia, New Zealand, USA & Canada, shaped around her own worldwide adventures. Kim also has a passion for the iconic wildlife viewing experiences both above and below the water.
Why Ningaloo Reef should be on your radar.
The Great Barrier Reef gets all the glory, but Ningaloo is its lesser-known, wild-hearted cousin – and, in many ways, I prefer it. Fewer crowds, better snorkelling and you can step straight off the beach into pristine reef.
It’s not the easiest place to get to (which, for me, is part of the appeal). We once flew into Perth and drove the entire 1,300 km up the coast in one go. The scenery barely changed for 13 hours, unless you count the increasing frequency of roadkill and the (frankly terrifying) road trains.
Dodging kangaroos at dusk became the only thing keeping us awake. In hindsight, I’d recommend flying to Learmonth and choosing either Exmouth or Coral Bay as your base. Coral Bay is quieter, Exmouth has a few more options, both offer access to Ningaloo’s magic.
Whale shark season runs from March to July, and while the idea of swimming with the world’s largest fish sounds serene, it’s anything but. You need to be fit, confident in open water and ready to move.
The whale shark experience: fast, furious, unforgettable.
Here’s how it works: you wait on the back platform of the boat, snorkel on, fins ready and adrenaline buzzing. The guide shouts, “Go!” and everyone drops into the sea like synchronised penguins. The goal? Swim fast enough to avoid being in the whale shark’s direct path, then hold your line and try to keep up.
On my turn, I was feeling smug.
Last to jump in, full of chat about being a strong swimmer. Huge mistake. I landed in the water, turned my head and there it was. Whale shark. Coming at me, fast, mouth wide open. I screamed through the snorkel (dignified, I know), half-swallowed the thing and flailed backwards like a panicked windmill. Not exactly Attenborough-worthy.
Still, once I found my rhythm, swimming alongside that enormous, gentle creature was nothing short of magical. It doesn’t last long (they’re surprisingly fast) so you hop back on the boat and try again. Each drop-in is a burst of effort and awe.
Beyond the whale sharks.
Even without the giants, Ningaloo is extraordinary. I did my advanced diving certification here, and it remains one of the best underwater experiences I’ve ever had. The reef is vibrant, unspoiled and incredibly accessible: you can snorkel straight off the shore and find yourself face-to-fin with turtles, rays and technicolour fish.
If you’re after a truly special marine experience…
Something that pushes you a little out of your comfort zone and rewards you tenfold – Ningaloo is worth the effort. You’ll come back salt-crusted, breathless and completely spellbound.
